Antarctica trip could not have been more different from Bhutan, but just as spectacular. This is why I am always tongue tied when I am asked to name my favorite country or trip. They are all so different.
I chose to go to Antarctica with Galapagos Travels. They had done such a wonderful job arranging the Galapagos trip and I trusted them to set us up with a good cruise for Antarctica. I also asked them for a pre-trip adventure, which was a side trip to Iguazu Falls from Buenos Aires.
80% of Iguazu Falls are on the Argentine side but the view is best on the Brazil side. Therefore, we stayed in a hotel, in Brazil, right across from the falls inside the park. This allowed us to see the falls after most tourists left and to get up early and walk along the falls before the park opened up to the public. At the Falls, each 5-minute walk opened up another view and amazing panoramas. The falls are not as powerful as Niagara, but they are spectacular and go on forever.
We spent a few days in Buenos Aires. I loved Buenos Aires but will only mention my favorite; the Recoleta Cemetery. The cemetery was established in 1822 and is renowned for its elaborate tombs. Some of these are as large as a NYC studio apartments. One particular family tomb’s façade had both a cross and a menorah on it. It left me wondering if the family was originally Jewish and had to convert during the inquisition. Eva Peron is buried in her family’s vault here.
Our jumping off point for the cruise was Ushuaia.
The ship was an old Russian submarine locator which was re-purposed as a “cruise” ship. It had about 100 passengers and a good size crew. The boat was very pleasant. It had 6 levels. Our berth was on the 4th level. The top level had the lounge and the bridge.
I spent a lot of time in the lounge looking out (when it was too cold outside.) There were lovely decks and we had access to the entire ship including the Bridge most of the time. (Obviously the decks got closed off in inclement weather.) The food was uneven: some good and some dreadful. The soups were often thin broth but sometimes were hearty and delicious.
There were a number of landings on the schedule – always weather permitting. Included stops were Falkland Island, South Georgia Island, South Shetland Island and mainland Antarctica.
To get on shore at these stops we used Zodiacs,. It was not an easy process. Each time before going ashore, I had to put on my foul weather gear (waterproof pants, jacket, gaiters and waterproof boots). I put on the waterproof jacket and pants in the cabin then went into the “mud room” to put on the boots and gaiters, which stayed in that room. (Gaiters were important to keep the boots free of water.) Even when the weather looked good, I had to wear these because I would probably get wet from the surf on the zodiac and most of the time we had wet landings in about 4 inches of water, though sometimes we were able to land right on shore.
Getting into the zodiac required walking down a set of stairs that were let down for the process. When the sea was rough, it was a bit dicey because the stairs bounced around. Once, I almost had to jump from the ladder to the zodiac.
On one ride, the zodiac driver was a maniac and went too fast. He did not drive the zodiacs again. The rest of the drivers were excellent.
There were many exciting experiences on this cruise. The scenery was spectacular and we saw lots of whales, seals, and penguins. Some of the animal encounters were very close and personal.
Some days were sea days and sometimes we went on shore or rode in the zodiac around little islands. The days at sea were not without excitement. On our first sea day, we were called up on deck to see 3 whales that were swimming in the opposite direction. It was very exciting to see them blow out. On other days we saw beautiful icebergs and many more whales. When possible, the captain stopped the ship so that we could watch the whales as they swam along the boat.
One time, we met whales while in the zodiacs. It was very exciting to watch them swim around us and be so close!
Falklands: Each stop was unique. At the Falkland Islands I saw Magellanic penguins, who live in burrows. Although many any were hiding in their burrows, others were waddling around. I watched two penguins go down to the water, using the gentlest slope and take the plunge.
Further on, I saw Cormorant birds and a colony of Rockhopper Penguins, including juveniles. It was very windy and the walk back to the zodiac, into the wind, was exhausting. But so worth it to see the Magellanics and the Rockhoppers.
South Georgia: The sea was calm when we arrived at Salisbury Plain in South Georgia, therefore the ride to the island was pleasant. As we landed, I saw an incredible sight: a beach covered with King penguins and fur seals.
We had been told to stay 15 feet from the animals, but no one told the animals to do the same. If I stood still, the penguins came to check me out.
King penguins are just beautiful with bright orange on their cheeks and a very white belly. The young ones were brown and round as barrels. Some of them were molting, which made them look very, very funny. Some of the penguins were sitting on eggs. The eggs were on their feet and they have a belly skirt to put over the eggs. I saw one lifting its skirt and saw the egg. Both the male and the females sit on the eggs – for 40 to 45 days.
After a bit, I climbed up the hill and looked down at a sea of penguins all calling to each other. The parents go to the sea to get food and then have to find their young to feed them. Each has its own call. You can imagine mom calling “Sonny”, and Sonny answering, “here I am”, all in their special code. It was loud.
The fur seals were not quite as sweet as the penguins. They often approached but not with friendliness. They would try and scare me off. I gave them a wide berth. There were tons of fur seal babies and they were just darling and furry.
The zodiac trip back to the boat was an adventure. The fog rolled in and our zodiac’s GPS stopped working. The driver had to navigate based on the ship foghorn blows. Also, the sea was now rough and it was difficult climbing up the gangway. It felt like a real adventure.
On another landing in South Georgia, this time in Cumberland Bay, we landed to visit Shackleton’s gravesite and drink a toast to his memory.
This time the welcoming party were elephant seals and lots of penguins including Chin Strap and Macaroni penguins. They are just so cute.
The nearby “town” of Grytviken no longer has year-round residents, but a small summer population takes care of the whaling museum and the Norwegian church.
Elephant Island, where Shackleton’s men stayed for four months waiting for his rescue, is rarely a landing spot because of the weather. We were very lucky and the captain allowed two zodiacs at a time, to land for short periods so that we would all get a chance to stand on this historic island and to visit the monument for the Chilean captain who rescued the men.
Here we were able to enjoy Chin Strap penguins slide on the glaciers. We barely got all the passengers back from the island before the weather turned rough.
Another rough adventure was the Yankee Harbor landing. The day started out calm but by the time we got the word to get back to ship, the swells were huge. This time we had an expert zodiac driver but still we held on for dear life. Getting on to the ramp beside the boat took patience.
The zodiac driver waited until the zodiac was level with the ramp. We made it up the ramp a few at a time. We did not return too soon, because by afternoon, we were clocking 60 MPH winds.
Although this is billed as an Antarctica trip, not all boats can land on that continent. We were lucky and I can truthfully say that I have been on all seven continents.
We walked around the area a bit, saw the Argentinian station, where the scientists live in tents, and watched whales and penguins nearby.
Lastly, what is a cruise without a picnic.
Final comments:
- When you find a good travel company – Galapagos Travels in this case, trust them to put together a good future trip.
- This trip had the draw of animal life and history.
- I was lucky and had a calm Drake crossing – thus: the Drake Lake rather than the Drake Shake.
- Although it was summer – most days were in the 40s. Some sunny days it went up to high 50s. Well worth it.
- I have bragging rights – having been to all 7 continents
Nili's Adventure 
I remember this trip and love reading about it. BUT I would never want to do it. Thanks for taking these adventures and letting me tag along. After reading this, I brought you a penguin stuffed animal for your NYC coop.
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