South Africa, Namibia, Botswana, Zambia

and Zimbabwe

Seeing all the animals in Galapagos, whetted my appetite for wildlife viewing; Southern Africa was, therefore, my next special destination.  I planed the trip to avoid some of New York City’s winter.  However, I read that February is the “wet” month in southern Africa, would that be a problem?  In addition, to see the big herds and migrations I would have to go in the summer. However, Leora Rothschild of Rothschild Safaris assured me that in February, we would still see many animals, have great experiences, the rain would be intermittent and the weather warm.  

At Leora’s recommendation we visited Cape Town, South Africa as well as camps in Namibia, Botswana, Zambia and Zimbabwe (ranging from dry desert to semi desert to wetlands).  In reality we had very little rain and fabulous experiences, some that could only happen at that time of the year (like seeing the young animals). 

Cape Town, South Africa was our first stop.  I am glad that we had four full days to enjoy both the city and the surrounding areas.  We splurged and stayed at the Cape Grace hotel.  I still dream of the breakfast buffet with the variety of fruit including luscious blackberries and their lovely afternoon tea.  

 We also arranged for a private day tour to the Wine Country, with its beautiful Tuscan like hills.  I can still close my eyes and transport myself to the veranda of one of the wineries that looked out on those lovely hills, which made me think I was in Italy. 

Life at the safari camps (also in the Botswana, and Zimbabwe camps) followed similar schedules.  There were usually two safari jeep rides, one early in the morning, and an evening drive, with rest time in between.

Usually at sunset, on the evening drive, we stopped for a sun downer: drinks and snacks while watching the beautiful African sunsets.  Dinner was served when we returned and usually the staff entertained us with their local music; singing and dancing after dinner.  

Neither Sossusvlei or Damaraland are rich in the exciting animal viewing.  But they offered lots of oryx, springboks as well as birds and cultural opportunities. However, at Ongava Reserve we had exciting sightings of lions and rhinos. First lion sighting: a mother and 2 cubs was so exciting that I felt exhausted from the experience.  

 After Namibia, we took “scheduled” planes from camp to camp.  The planes were all small and the runways were usually just dirt roads.  The drives from the air fields to the camps were mini safari drives, because we would see lots of wildlife along the way.

The remaining time was spent in Sandibe, Nxabega and Chobe camps in Botswana, the River Club resort in Zambia and Makalolo camp in Zimbabwe.  Each one was wonderful and different. 

Wildlife was abundant in Botswana and Zimbabwe.  We saw lions, elephants, buffalos, giraffes, hippos, zebras, baboons, and more.  The camps were in the wild and the animals often came very close to camp.  

In all camps, except in the River Club resort, where we stayed in a chalet, we slept in tents.

The tents were usually a short walk from the dining room and lounge, but in most places, we were not allowed to walk to our tent alone, without a guide, especially at night. After all, we were in the jungle.  One evening, while in our tent, we heard one of the alarms going off.  A couple of minutes later someone shined a light into our tent and asked if we were OK.  We were, but were just out of the shower and naked. Apparently, the guide had walked the people in the tent next to us back to their tent and then saw a lion.  He had raised the alarm. 

In another instance, we were in a camp that allowed us to walk to the dining tent without a guide during day time.  However, one morning, I realized that I had forgotten my camera, therefore, after breakfast I told my guide that I would only be a minute because I had to go back to the tent.  He said he would walk me back because they had been hearing lions.  Sure enough, on our way he saw a lion in the grass.  We stopped, retreated and went around by vehicle back to the tent to get my camera.  Pretty scary stuff! 

In Zambia, at the River Club, we were right on the Zambezi River.  This was a welcome change from “camping” in the preserves.  

What were some of the most exciting moments?  

Being spring, we saw baby lions playing and romping.  Another incredible experience was watching an elephant destroy a full-grown tree.  And in retrospect, just being on safari, watching the animals move in their environment, the beautiful sunsets and the marvelous guides were all that I could have wished for.

Before I close this trip, I want to share my favorite picture: Puku jumping in Chobe.

Final comments: 

• Don’t always trust the guidebooks as to when to go on a trip.  There are advantages and disadvantages in each season.  
• It is a good idea to work with a tour operator, who specializes in an area and can give ideas and recommendations.  Leora, specializes in Africa and was a wonderful resource.
• Creating my own independent trip, with the help of a good tour operator, rather than a group tour gave us much more flexibility.  We could decide how long to stay at each camp.  I was still able to arrange airport pickup and drop off and have the luxury of not having to maneuver in strange cities. It is the best of possible worlds.